The Original “Sowbug”

Recipe:
Hook: TMC 3769 size 12-18
Thread: UNI- thread 6/0 Tan
Antennae: UNI- thread / same color
Back: Swiss straw/ brown or mottled thinskin
Body: Antron/ cream
Rib: UNI- thread/ same
Lead wire: 0.15

This is the original sowbug that was created for the White River and Norfork tailkwater systems. Fox Statler is the originator of this pattern. This pattern is deadly in high water. I think the best size is a 12 fishing it in two or three units at the start of the dam. The biggest fish I’ve caught so far on it was a eight pound brown. I’m still waiting for something bigger and I’ll be ready when that time comes.

TYING INSTRUCTION:

This fly is real simple, but very effective.

Step 1.

As you can see I already weighted the fly. Do enough wraps to cover most of the hook shank ,but leave enough room for a head to tie in, and in the back as well.

Step 2.

Start you’re thread in the front of the lead wire making a thread dam and wind over the lead doing the same thing to the back of the lead. This will lock it into place so that it will not shift or move when you go to complete the fly.

Step 3.

Once you do that you should still have a tag hanging of the back. What I do with this is make a loop with the tag to create my antennae’s. You will cut that after you complete the fly. Whatever tag end you have left after making the loop, go ahead and cut it off.

Step 4.

Advance the thread back to the center of the shank. Now you’re ready to tie in your swiss straw. Cut a piece of swiss straw and cut it in the center. Now you will have two pieces. You will only need to use one of those. Tie it in an wind to the bend. Advance the thread to the eye to start the dubbing.

Step 5.

You can’t really see how the dubbing is put on, but I’m sure you know how. The only thing in this step is not to dub too much dubbing around the shank as you wind back. Build the dubbing up as you go.

Step 6.

Once you are at the back, grab some kind of pliers that has a flat surface so you can pinch the lead flat to create the flat body. I like to use the de-barb pliers from Tiemco. After you pinch the lead you are ready to start the segmentations. Your thread should be at the back. Now start the segments wrapping the thread to the eye. I usually do about six to seven turns creating the segments. The bigger the hook the more segmentations.

Step 7.

Cut the loop in the back to form the attenneas.

Step 8.

Whip finish the fly and glue the eye.

Hunt’s Perfect Scud

Recipe:
Hook: 2457 TMC size 14-18
Weight: Lead Wire .15
Thread: Uni-thread 6/0 Tan
Body: Antron dubbing
Back: Thin Skin - Gray

TYING INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1.

Wrap about 10-12 wraps of .15 lead wire.

Step 2.

Now build thread dams on each side of where the lead wire ends. Make sure you center the wire in the middle of the hook shank.

Step 3.

Don’t worry about thread wraps in the center yet. That will happen as you build the fly. Now you’re ready for the wire.

Step 4.

Tie in the wire and advance the thread back up to the front.

Step 5.

Cut a strip of thin skin according to the size of the hook you’re using. You want it to be wide enough to cover the back, but not to fold down the sides. You need to be able to brush the dubbing out after you get done tying the fly.

Step 6.

Tie the thin skin in somewhere in the center. Tie it to the bend and advance the thread back up. Whip finish the thread so you can make a thread base of the Fl. orange.

Step 7.

Tie in the orange thread in the center. Make an even thread base to the bend and advance it back where you started. As you can see I only tied the orange on half of the shank. That’s the way they look in real life so why not do it to your flies. I guess that’s why you see red thread heads on so many scud patterns.

Step 8.

Start your thread back and wind to the bend.

Step 9.

Now your ready to dub the fly all the way up until you get right behind the eye. Always leave a little room for a thread head. Make sure when your dubbing the fly you make a nice tapered look. You want it to be bigger in the back and smaller as you wind to the front.

Step 10.

Fold the thin skin over and tie it in at the front. Cut the excess off. I leave a little tag over the eye.

Step 11.

Get some pliers that have a flat side on each side and squeeze the lead wire to create a high back.

Step 12.

Wind the wire making the wraps even all the way up. I like to space mine smaller in between.

Step 13.

Whip finish the fly and glue the eye.

Davy Wotton Shad (Floating)

Recipe:
Hook: Pencil popper hooks - 2/0, 1, 2, 4
Thread: .006 monofilament
Lead wire: .25 or .30 or (unweighted to stay on the surface)
Inner body: Wing-n-flash / dubbed around the shank
Outer body: Flexi - cord ¼ any color you desire. Pearl and pearl silver are the popular ones.
Gills: Dave Whitlock SLF minnow gill
Eyes: 5/16”, 1/4 “
Additional materials for tying this fly: zap-a- gap, permanent marker pens- black, red, olive green. I like the prisma color markers the best, but you can use what you got if need be.

Davy Wotton does an extremely good job on his original pattern. I have to give him credit where credit is due. What a great pattern. He slides two pieces of flexi cord to make his belly. I do it a little different.

TYING INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1.

Start the mono somewhere in the middle. You will have to wind back over with a few turns to lock it in. This mono is hard to secure around the metal shank so make sure it’s secure when you go to wind to the bend. This fly is not going to have any weight in it. However you can add weight or fly rattles to create any action you want.

Step 2.

Cut a piece of artic fox and tie it in. You will need to comb out the excess hair that is to short to tie in. Your looking for the longer hairs. Also pick out some of the longer hairs that aren’t the same length as the majority of the tail. One thing I will mention to you is don’t measure the tail the length of the hook shank. You want it to be short. Measure it half the length of the hook shank. Most shad’s if you look at them they have a shorter tail than the body.

Just a little tip, you don’t have to pull all the flash out of the bag. Just pull the tips of it and you should get the desired length you want to tie in. When you go to cut it to length, cut a little past the tail. This will make the flash stand out a little bit more when it’s in the water.

Note: Make sure you only tie in enough flash to blend in with the tail.

Step 3.

Now dub some of the wing-n-flash on the mono and wrap it over the lead wire. Make sure you cover all the lead and only wrap the flash sparse. If you dub the body too fat, you will not be able to slide the flexi cord over it. If you have any of those loose flash strands hanging all over the place after you are done dubbing it go ahead and cut those off. You want the dubbing to be as close to the hook shank as possible.

Step 4.

You don’t need too much of the minnow gill dubbing. Just enough to wrap over the hump and that’s it. Just pay attention to where I’m at with the dubbing on the hook shank. I always use the hump for my reference on any of these I tie. Now tie off the thread and you’re ready to slide the flexi-cord on. When you tie it off go ahead and put some zap-a-gap on you’re knot so that the fly really holds together.

Step 5.

When you go to measure the flexi-cord make sure you go a little past the eye of the hook so that you can form a slope in the belly. Measure from where you tied in you’re tail to the whole length of the shank and a little past the eye.

Note: Remember to burn the ends with a lighter. It will give it a edge so when you go to start the thread to lock it in the thread it won’t slip down when tying it in.

Step 6.

This part can be a little tricky. One way that I have fixed this problem is by putting some zap-a-gap on the top part of the flexi cord so that my thread grabs it and doesn’t slide down when I go to cinch it around the shank. You will notice when you do this step the mono will want to slide down to the tail. Make sure that the flexi-cord is not side ways (the fold) when you go to cinch it in.

Step 7.

Wapsi has made this part a little easier for all of us. They recently came out with different sizes of foam called “Foam Cylinders”. These patterns are usually tied with size 1/4 for the larger sizes and 1/8 for the smaller sizes. We are using the 1/4 size. These are round in size so we will need to cut this in half. I have found out that using a long straight pair of scissors will do the trick. I started off using razor blades but found out in a hurry that this wasn’t working. My foam always seemed crooked. The only thing you need to pay attention to when you go to cut this is don’t try to make to many cuts going up the foam. I try to make one solid cut so that I don’t see my cuts on the edges of the foam. So after you have made you’re cut tie one half of this in the back on top of the flexi cord. Tie you’re thread off and put some kind of glue on you’re wraps so it will hold together.

Step 8.

This is another tricky part to do. You will notice that you will have to do the same thing here as you did in the back with the flexi cord. You will see that the flexi cord is hanging over the eye. What you will need to do is push the cord back to form you’re belly and while you are holding the flexi-cord back just behind the eye you will need to grab you’re thread and tie it around the cord while holding the cord back so it doesn’t slide back over the eye. What I do is put the tag end of the monofilament in my mouth and count that as my third hand. By having tension on the tag end with my mouth, this will allow you to be able to wind it around the cord while still holding the cord with you’re other hand.

Step 9.

Once you have tied in you’re flexi-cord in fold the foam over and tie it in also. Whip finish the fly and now you’re ready to glue the eyes on. You will see a lip hanging off the front and the back of the foam. I like to cut those even (on top) to keep the fly looking tapered with the foam.

Only use marine goop. It’s the best, trust me on this. Here’s a picture for you to see what your looking for. wal-mart will have this in stock.

Step 10.

Finish Product. I would give this a good day to dry before fishing it.

Additional comments:

- A fly rattle may be use in the middle of the shank on the under side by using epoxy.
-Also you can create how you want this fly to ride in the water by how much foam you are using.
-You can paint the cord with permanent markers to create different baitfish patterns.

Hunt’s Hybrid Crayfish

Recipe:
Hook: Di-Riki 700b size 4,6
Thread: 6/0 Uni- thread color to match body
Mandibles: Spanflex SX4 color to match body
Antennae: Sili legs (speckled flake)
Claws: Barred squirrel (Wapsi product)
Shellback: Swiss straw
Body: SLF (Dave Whitlock) The crayfish color blends
Legs: Grizzly Hen saddle
Rib: UTC wire size (BR)
Tail: Swiss straw
Weight: .25 lead wire

I came up with this pattern for Feather Craft’s catalog in 2003. All I can say is this pattern works and has been tested on many different waters by thousands of fly fisherman. Make sure you have this one in your fly box.

Step 1.

Secure the lead on the bottom portion of the hook shank. I do about twelve wraps of .25.

Step 2.

Tie your thread at the bend of the hook and do enough turns to get the thread started. Cut the tag end off.

Step 3.

Cut two strands of span flex and tie them in at the bend of the hook. You will notice how long mine are. You can trim the excess off or tie it in around the hook shank. I like to cut mine off. Make sure the antennas are cut even at the tips.

Step 4.

This is an easy technique to learn if you don’t know it already. It doesn’t show you how to do the step so i will try to explian it. Fold the sili legs around the thread. You’re going to hold the bobbin with the other hand and the hand holding sili legs you’re going to hold it while turning the bobbin around the shank. If you keep tension as you go around with the bobbin (thread). By making that first turn around you will see the sili legs slide down the thread as you make the turn. The sili legs are going to be on top of the hook shank once you’ve made a complete turn with you’re thread. You will be able to adjust them once you tie them in. You will notice that they are sticking straight up . Go ahead and wind on top of them once you have tied them in. This will force them to lay back with the spanflex.

Step 5.

Cut a strand of swiss straw to the length of one fold on the cord. Poke one end of the swiss straw through the hook point. Make sure that when you poke this through the swiss straw you’re at the end of the swiss straw. If you poke it in the middle of the swiss straw you will not have enough for the shell back that goes across the whole fly. You also will have a tail hanging off the back with the same piece. This step is kind of complicated at first. Since you don’t have a lot of excess swiss straw to tie in around the shank after you poke it in the hook point. I have noticed that you have to make sure with the first wrap that it grabs all the swiss straw when you go to tie it in.

Step 6.

If you’re going to add eyes now is the time to do so. I don’t mess with them so I skip that step all together. Now dub a little ball of SLF dubbing around the thread. You don’t need a lot, just enough to make the pinchers flare out when you tie them in.

Step 7.

You will need to cut two pinchers the same length using squirrel. This is a newer material, but you can find this in shops now.

Step 8.

Tie in the squirrel strips right behind the little ball of dubbing make sure that you really tie them in securely and butt them up to the ball so you get that flare from the pinchers.
Step 9.

Split the barbs evenly on each side of the feather at the tip section of the of the grizzly hen saddle and tie it in with tip end of the feather hanging concave to be palmered up to form the legs later. Note when tying the feather in make sure not to wrap any of the barbs that form the legs when you start to wind the feather forward. Tie in the feather where you split it.

Step 10.

Once you tie in the feather and its hanging off the back, form dubbing loop. You will need to make a fairly good loop because you will need a lot of dubbing to fill in the loop. I like to make the loop about three to four inches long. And you will fill that whole loop with dubbing. Make sure you don’t put to much in one area. You will need to spread it out evenly.

Spin the dubbing with some kind of dubbing twister. Once you got the loop tight and dubbing secure, tie it around to form a small to big and back to small tapered effect. Tie it along the whole half of the shank until you get to the first bend in the hook. Which is the middle section of the hook. That is key to the fly. That is your main reference point to proportioning the fly correctly.

Step 10.

Palmared the hen saddle forward to create the legs. I do about four to five turns until I get to the middle of that first bend on the hook.

Step 11.

Cut a piece of wire. Tie it in at the bend in the middle. After you have tied in the wire go ahead and advance the thread up to the other half of the shank where you see all the lead wire and tie that in. Build thread dams on each side of the wire so it doesn’t slide or move, make sure that you don’t push you’re lead to close to the eye or you will not have any room for the swiss straw to be folded over and tied in. Always Leave a space of metal showing between the lead and the eye. Advance your thread back to the middle where you see the bend.

Step 12.

Grab the swiss straw, fold it over, and tie it at the bend in the center of the hook. You only need to tie it down with two to three turns. If you tie anymore you definitly start to see your thread wraps on the outside of the straw.

Step 13.

Fold the swiss straw back after you make your two or three wraps. Go ahead and dub the fly up and make a smooth even body all the way up to the eye.

Step 14.

Fold the swiss straw over the dubbed body and tie it down at the front of the eye.

Step 15.

Wrap the wire up until you get to the eye and tie it off. I do about six to seven turns of wire and you should be at the eye. If you’re not it’s because you wrapped the wire to tight to the next wrap. Make you’re angle bigger and that will fix the problem.

Step 16.

I don’t like to use scissors to cut the wire. Make sure you use dull ones or bad ones. Or you can move the wire back and forth fast and it will brake off from the heat of moving it. It will make a clean brake with no tag end hanging. Fold the swiss straw over and tie off. Whip finish the fly.

Step 17.

With some curved scissors cut the swiss straw to make the tail the right length. Brush the bubbing out along the tail part.

Note: I epoxy the whole swiss straw to make a nice shell back plus a durable fly that will not tear up. I also like to brush out the dubbing on the under side with a dubbing brush (if you have a gun cleaner wire brush that will work the best).