Hook - Mustad 7970/Size 8
Thread - Black 6/0 UNI-Thread
Rib - Amber Ultra Wire (Small)
Tail - Krystal Flash (Hot Yellow)
Body - Yellow Chenille (medium)
Wing - Mink Zonker Strip (1/8″ wide)
Collar - Red Schlappen
Head - Tying Thread coated with two coats of clear nail polish (SHHAN Mega shine)

Materials are tyed on in the order they are listed above.

Hook - Mustad Model 3906/Size 6
Thread - Black 6/0 UNI-Thread
Tail - Golden Pheasant Tippets (dyed hot orange)
Rib - Amber Ultra Wire (small)
Body - Dark Claret Real Seal Dubbing (tyed in a dubbing loop)
Wing - Black Rabbit Zonker Strip (1/8″ wide)
Head - Tying Thread coated with two layers of clear nail polish (SHHAN Mega Shine)

Materials are listed in the order they are tyed onto the hook.

Hook - Mustad 3906/Size 6
Thread - Black 6/0 UNI-Thread
Tail - Golden Pheasant Tippets
Rib - Amber Ultra Wire (small)
Body - Dark Claret Real Seal fur (dubbing loop)
Back - Squirrel Zonker Stip (1/8″ wide)
Head - Tying Thread coated with clear nail polish (SHHAN Mega Shine)

Materials are tyed on in the order they are listed above.

Hook - Mustad Model C49S/Size 8
Underbody - White Wooly Nylon (used to build up a smooth tapered underbody)
Body - Two strands of “Legs Alive” of two different contrasting colors (you can also use Flexifloss)
Thread - Black UNI-Thread (6/0)
Wing - Three CDC Feathers

(These are a LOT of fun to tye!)

Materials are listed in the order they are tyed onto the hook.

Hook - Mustad Model C49S/Size 8
Underbody - White Wooly Nylon (used to build up a smooth tapered underbody)
Body - Two strands of “Legs Alive” of two different contrasting colors (you can also use Flexifloss)
Thread - Black UNI-Thread (6/0)
Collar - Indian Hen Hackle
Head - Tying Thread coated with clear nail polish

(These are a LOT of fun to tye!)

Materials are listed in the order they are tyed onto the hook.

Hook - Cabelas Model 40 / Size 2
Thread - Purple UNI-Stretch
Tag - Narrow Gold Tinsel
Rib - Narrow Gold Tinsel
Body - Purple UNI-Streatch
Underwing - Five or Six Strands of Peacock Herl
Belly - Purple Bucktail (sparce)
Wing - Four Gray Saddle Hackles
Shoulders - Teal Flank Feathers
Cheeks - Jungle Cock Eyes (or substitute)
Head - Black UNI-Thread coated with clear nail polish (Sally Hansen’s Hard-As-Nails Mega Shine)

Materials are listed in the order they are tyed onto the hook.

Hook - Mustad Model 3665A/Size 6
Under Body Wrap - White Wooly Nylon
Tag - Narrow Gold Metal Tinsel
Rib - Narrow Gold Metal Tinsel
Tail - Red Hackle Fibers
Body - Green UNI-Floss
Wing - Mallard Flank Feather Fibers
Head - Black 6/0 Thread
Eyes - Black and White Craft Paint coated with clear nail polish (SHHAN)

Materials are listed in the order they are tyed onto the hook.

Hook - Mustad 3906
Thread - Red UNI-Thread (6/0)
Body - Peacock Herl (reinforced in a dubbing loop)
Wing - Pheasant Tail Fibers (dyed green)
Head - Tying Thread coated with clear nail polish (SHHAN)

Materials are listed in the order they are tyed onto the hook.

Hook - Mustad Model 9672/Size 8
Thread - Black UNI-Thread (6/0)
Underbody - Tan Foam Triangle (1″ long x 3/8″ wide)
Tails - Legs Alive (Brown)
Body - Six strands of peacock herl (reinforced with tying thread)
Hopper Legs - TNT Hopper Legs (Brown legs colored with red and green Sharpie Markers)
Upper Body - Brown Foam Triangle (1″ long x 3/8″ wide)
Front legs - Legs Alive (Brown/Two strands each side)
Strike Indicator - Small strip of yellow foam (1/8″ wide x 3/8″ long)

Tyed like a Los Alamos Ant Pattern, but the hopper legs are glued in with superglue before the top foam triangle is tyed down. See my post for the Los Alamos Ant for tying instructions.

Hook - Mustad Model R70/Size 10
Thread - Olive UNI-Thread (6/0)
Hackle - Speckled Brown Indian Hen Saddle Hackle (Mostly creamy brown in color)
Body - Kreinik Soie Platte Silk (#2525/Golden Olive)
Rib - Tag end of the tying thread (counter wrapped to protect the silk during fishing)
Thorax - Life Cycle Nymph Dubbing (Medium Olive)

Materials are tyed on in the order they are listed above.

1) Mount Thread but leave a long piece (leave roughly 4 inches or 100 mm of thread for a tag end) extending to the back of the hook. This tag end will be used to rib the body and reinforce the silk to keep it from fraying during fishing.
2) Attach hackle to the hook. The hackle will be tyed in by the base of the feather facing out over the eye of the hook. Tye in the feather with the curved side (good side) facing towards you to make wrapping easier at the end).
3) Wrap the thread back about 1/8″ (~3 mm) towards the point of the hook and clip off the hackle stem.
4) Attach a single strand of silk to the hook and wrap the tread back towards the bend of the hook. Make sure that each thread wrap is touching the previous on to form a very smooth underbody. Stop wrapping the thread when the thread is half way between the point of the hook and the barb.
5) Wrap the tying thread back to the front of the hook. Stop wrapping when you get the where you want the thorax to start (roughly 1/8″ or 3 mm behind the hackle stem).
6) Wrap the silk forward in smooth even wraps. Be careful to leave room for the thorax and head of the fly. Tye it off and clip excess when you get up to the tying thread.
7) Take the tag end of the tying thread (see step 1) and counter wrap the body. This will reinforce the silk and prevent fraying of the silk during fishing. It will also give the rear body a little subtle segmentation to the body. You can skip this step, but I feel it gives the body a little extra touch that looks nice.
Dub a small thorax (roughly 1/8″ diameter or 2 to 3 mm in diameter). Once the thorax is formed, place the tying thread just to the front of the thorax.
9) Using hackle pliers, clip the tip of the hen hackle and wrap two or three wraps back towards the thorax. Wrap the tying thread over the hackle stem two times and clip off the excess hackle.
10) With the thumb and forefingers of your non-tying hand, stroke the fibers back towards the body of the fly. Form a neat little thread head and whip finish.
11) Coat head with a small drop of head cement.