Hook: 2/0
Tail: Zonker Strip
Body: Crosscut Rabbit
Diving Head: Foam

Tie in tail and cross cut rabbit at hook bend. Wrap crosscut rabbit about one hook eye width from the hook eye. Tie in foam and whip finish.

Hook: TMC 200R #4 - 8
Weight: Lead hour glass Eyes (plain, unpainted)
Eyes: Medium Mono Eyes - Black
Antennae: Peacock Crystal Flash (2-4 Strands); Pheasant tail fibers (4-6); Mallard flank (barred wood duck - small pinch)
Claws/Legs: Golden olive rabbit strips
Under body: Foam to build shape and bulk, covered in green dubbing (for an olive crayfish I use damsel olive in Whitlock’s Dubbing Blend #1)
Overbody: Light olive furry foam
Shell: Specks and Tan thin skin
Tail: Flap of furry foam with thin skin glued to it

1. Tie in hour glass eyes behind hook eye on the top of the shank… this will cause fly to ride hook up. Add glue to ensure weight is secure
2. Tie in antennae material (flash, then pheasant tail, then mallard flank) and mono eyes. line up eyes with hook point
3. Tie in 2 rabbit strips just behind mono eyes- length to suit imitation size
4. Rotate or invert hook
5. Tie in foam the length of body and secure all the way down hook
6. Use additional foam to build up thorax
7. Cover all foam with dubbing.
8. Tie in furry foam and then thin skin. Thin skin should be slightly more narrow than furry foam… be sure that material extends beyond hook eye, to form tail. Thin skin should be slightly shorter than furry foam
9. Tie down furry foam and thin skin, using only 6-8 tie down points (Make these points very secure. 6-8 wraps)… tie down points should create a segmented shell effect. Make your final tie down point just in front of hour glass eyes, leaving extra material free to appear as a tail.
10. Whip finish at hook eye, under tail.
11. Cut tail to suit imitation size
12. Use Zap Gel to adhere thin skin to furry foam… very small amount!

Vary the size, bulk and color (Tan, brown, dark olive, rust, etc.)

You could also tie in rubber legs behind rabbit strip, to form legs

In gin clear water, the thin skin may cause fly to be too shiny… tie some without thin skin. This however, will dramatically reduce the life of your fly… smallies shred furry foam

Hook: Mustad 34007 4/0
Trailer Hook: Saltwater #6
Tail: Magnum Rabbit Strip 2 Toned Red/Black and roster feathers tied in deceiver style
Body: Crosscut rabbit strip white and two toned red/black
Eyes: Glass rattle with googlie eyes glued on the ends
Head: Foam
Diving Bill: Large bead chain, stiff wire and foam

Put it on thick!

red microchenille
3mm copper bead
krystal flash, pearl
marabou, red
ultrawire, medium, red
6/0 UNI thread, red
Tiemco 2457 scud hook, size 8, or
Mustad 34007, size 8

You basic SJW with a kick.

Tie in a pinch of marabou and a couple strands of flash at the hook bend. Thread chenille through bead and tie in at hook bend.wrap towards head and tie off. Wrap wire body from hook bend to bead. Coat body with head cement for more durability.

red microchenille
3mm copper bead
6/0 UNI thread, red
ultrawire, medium, red
Tiemco 2457 scud hook, size 8

I started with the basic SJW pattern. I opted for the microchenille and threaded a piece through a bead and onto a size 8 Tiemco 2457 scud hook. Here’s where it gets interesting. I tied on a red wire body, the length of the hook shank. I tied in the chenille at the rear of the hook, whip finished, and tied off. I put head cement on the thread wraps and coated the entire wire body. This fly should now be as tough as an armored car.

hook: size 10 Tiemco 2457 or other 2x heavy scud hook; TMC 3769 nymph hook
thread: 6/0 UNI, dark brown
head: black bead, 5/32”
wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl
thorax: antron yarn, brown stone
legs: silicone grizzly legs, silver peacock
body: antron yarn, brown stone
rib: Ultra Wire gold, medium
tail: antron yarn, brown stone

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 3″ of antron yarn, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length as the tail. Tie in the wire rib. Wrap thread forward over the tag end of the wire to midway across the hook shank. Wrap (palmer)the antron yarn around the hook, 2/3 of the length, building up a tapered body. Tie off and trim. Wrap the wire rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the yarn, tie off and trim. Cut the flashback material in a 1/8” wide strip. Tie in. Tie in a sili leg on each side of the hook shank at the thorax. Tie in a piece of antron yarn. Wrap thread to beadhead. Palmer the yarn to the beadhead, building a thorax, tie off and trim. Fold the flashback forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

Mustad 34007 size 6 or 8
furry foam
6/0 UNI thread Drk Brown
Chenille, Pink
6mm metal bead
butane lighter

optional: cream dubbing or antron yarn for mussel foot

Full tying instructions can be found here:

http://www.roughfisher.com/2008/09/darth-clam-aka-roughfisher-foam-clam.html

Hook: No. 8 Gamakatsu S-10 3F
Thread: 8/0 Uni-Thread chartreuse
Tail: Marabou
Flash: 3-4 strands pearl Krystal Flash
Underbody: Pearl micro-chenille
Body: White foam
Popper: Sequin
Eyes: 3D prism eyes

1. Attach thread just behind hook eye and wind to barb.
2. Attach marabou and tie in 3-4 strands flash.
3. Tie in micro-chenille and wind forward to just behind hook eye and whip finish.
4. Attach thread at rear of hook.
5. Take a 1/8-inch strip of white foam and poke hole in middle with bodkin.
6. Push eye of hook through the hole and tie the foam off at rear.
7. Trim foam to desired length and whip finish.
8. Add sequin and Supe Glue in place. Super Glue eyes in place.

hook: 6
thread: Orange 6/0
eye: 3d
wing: angle hair

nil

Size 12 Hook
Rubber Legs
Saddle Hackle(optional)
Chain Eyes
Green Felt
Green Chenille

Start with your thread wraps then tie on your rubber legs. Cross wrap your chain eyes and tie on your Chenille, Hackle, and Felt. Move thread to near hook eye. wrap chenille up the do the same with hackle. Tie off your felt near the hook eye. (optional to make ribs)

Good luck