newly designed Translucent Red Midge Liquid Lace Tubing
.020 Lead wire
#12 scud hook
grouse tail fibers (legs)
1/8″ scud back for wing case
Peacock herl foe Thorax
antron wool for gills

tye in lead on top of hook. Taper tail end.
Tye in lace on side of hook inbetween lead and hook.
Streetch as you tye it down towards the bend of the hook. Take 3 overlapping wraps of thread to trap the oil in the lace and prerssurize the remaining lace.
Pull snuggly and wrap towards the hook eye.
On the 3rd wrap release all tension on the Lace and allow it to simply lay on the hook. You’ll notice it growing it diameter becaus eof a knot in the other end of the Lace that traps any oil from escaping.
Tye off at the desired location and tye in legs to proportion.
Tye in gllis over hook eye. tye in scud back over gill and hook eye. tye in peacock herl. wrap 4 wraps of herl ending at the exact location that the legs are tyed in at.
secure with one wrap of thread.
Pull scud back material over the herl and whip finish between the legs and herl. color thread to match.

Body. Red wool or Chenille
Rib Tinsel
Wing. 4 hen hackles

xx

Black and blue angel hair

put tube in vice
tie in a 1″ piece of .030 lead wire at front of tube
for top, tie in black angel hair, fold remaining back over the top
for bottom, tie in blue angel hair - same instructions as the top
apply eyes as desired
cover the head with epoxy

Redfish Slider
Hook: Mustad 34007 size 1 or 2.
Thread: Brown flat waxed nylon (140 denier).
Tail: Brown craft fur with a couple of strands of copper Flashabou or Krinkle Flash on each side.
Wing: Palmered neck saddles.
Head: Brown deer body hair, flared w/ bead chain eyes
Weed Guard: 12-pound test Mason

My version of the Borski Redfish Slider - Mine are a little more buggy than the original, but I like nothing better than a big Hors D’oeuvre, so does Mr. Redfish, Bon appetit

Tie in the bead chain eyes before palmering the neck hackles.

#2 Aberdeen hook
Spun Polyester Size 50
Lead Wire .020″
Brass Bead 3/16″
Marabou (Brown)
Chenelle (Brown)
Silli Legs (Brown)
SuperFoam sheet (Brown)
Hot Glue
Head cement
Black marker

1.After putting the bead on,wrap the entire shank with the lead wire.
2.Make a base,then wrap to clumps of marabou at the tail.
3.Tie on the silli legs,I used 2 pieces to make the legs of the crayfish (you can use more pieces or none at all).
4.Go back to the marabou and tie on chenelle,seperate the two clumps to make the claws,then wrap down to the bead.
5.Grab a brown sheet of SuperFoam and cut out a shape similar to a tadpole shape (see picture).It needs to be that shape because the thin end will be where you tie the foam onto the fly and the bigger end can wrap a bit around the fly body,making it look like a crayfish’s shell.
6.Tie down the foam, whip finish.
7.Using hot glue (or superglue),glue down the foam (make sure the bigger side of the foam is glued a bit onto the sides so that it gives that shell appearance).If you use hot glue and a bit ends up oozing out from under the foam while putting pressure on the foam,don’t worry,just cut enough off so that it doesnt stick out from under the foam.The fly is meant to be seen by the fish from an “aerial” perspective.
8.Apply cement to thread.
9.To give the crayfish eyes,draw two small dots (on both left and right sides of foam) to make the eyes.draw a couple lines on the tail to make those plate marks that a crayfish has on it’s tail (or you could tie in the segemnts during step 6).

foam body
legs and wing turkey tail
head and collar yellow dyed deer hair

na

Raffia, Broom bristles,Pheasant tail fibers. peacock herl

N/A

Hook: Mustad 3366 Size2
Thread: Black
Tail and Body: pine squirrel strip
Legs: orange/brown
Eyes: lead

Hook: Mustad 3366 Size2
Thread: Black
Tail and Body: pine squirrel strip
Legs: orange/brown
Eyes: lead

Hook: Mustad 34011 (long shank), 3407 (standard length), or your choice
Tail: Marabou, white
Body (underbody): Closed-cell foam
Body: EZ-body braid, large
Gills: Marabou, green, pink, white
Head: EZ-body braid. 1/2″ section of tied at marabou gills and pushed back over itself to create pseudo gill covers anchored at hook eye.
Eyes: Red holographic stick-on eyes. Thread: Danville’s flat-waxed (white-tail, pink-head)

1. Tail - Mount a needle in the vice. Tie on marabou, lightly anchoring it with a few wraps. Wet shaft area to tame fibers, and slide a 3″ section of 1/2″ EZ-body braid over the shaft. Take two loose wraps of thread around the braid and slowly tighten. Tighten down the braid and tie off. Slide assembly off the needle and coat wraps with cement of your choice. I use a drop of Zap-a-gap due to its “wicking” properties. Once you get the hang of it, you can quickly do the whole thing just holding the marabou in your left and and sliding on the braid.

2. Body - Trim a section of foam into an elongated ellipse. Color the body in the pattern of your choice. In this case green top edge, followed by a pink strip down the middle. Small black dots create an illusion of a rainbow trout. Take a razor and make a very shallow cut along the bottom edge of foam to provide a guide for the hook shank. Slide the trimmed and colored foam inside the section of EZ-body braid. Work it all the way down to the tail. Take the hook of your choice and slide insert into the braid. Slide along the bottom of the foam. The foam and braid are flexible enough to allow many different hook gaps and lengths. The hook should exit roughly 2/3rds of the way down the foam. (Assuming a right-handed tier) With your left hand sweep the body assembly to the left exposing the head of the hook. Mount the pink thread. Slide the body assembly to its final position and take a few loose wraps around the open end of the braid. Tighten and trim off any excess. Try for at least 1/4 inch of free space at the eye.

3. Head - tie in the marabou gills/collar. Green on top, pink on the sides, white on bottom. The fly actually fishes better with “marabou overload” so don’t be afraid to tie it in heavy. Take the waste section of EZ-body just cut off. Slide it on and tie securely, Tie off the thread and anchor the wraps with cement. Push the braid back over itself to expose the eye and tie the thread in again. Pull the braid back towards the eye, while holding the back edge of the new gil cover assembly. This will tighten the braid slightly, making it easier to anchor it. Take a few loose wraps and slowly tighten down. Trim any loose edges of the braid that crowd the eye. Build up a head, tie off and cement.

4. Finish - Add eyes and coat the head with thinned Loons Hard Head, or the epoxy of your choice (to hold the eyes on better). You can also lightly coat the body to give a little more rigidity to the whole thing if desired.

It sounds much more difficult than it really is. After a few times you can kick these out in about 5 minutes, each.

Hook: Gamakatsu B10S Stinger
Tail: 6-8 Grizzly Saddles, 4 strands Opal Crystal Flash, topped with Peacock Herl
Body: Tan Marabou (palmered), followed by 2 Grizzly Saddles (palmered) for the collar
Head: Tan, Closed-Cell Craft Foam with 3D Holographic Eyes

1. Tie saddles in just in front of hook bend. Add flash and top with peacock.
2. Palmer marabou in front of tail materials while leaving enough room for the hackle collar.
3. Tie in saddles for hackle collar. You can either twist (wrap) or palmer together.
4. Cut a heart-shape out of closed-cell craft foam and coat the inside with epoxy or super glue (CA) gel.
5. While stroking the hackle collar back, pinch the head onto the fly. Focus on anchoring the front portion. Since mullet have fairly broad heads, the rear of the foam is allowed to flare slightly on top of the hackle collar. For a more streamlined profile the entire head can be pinched flat.
6. Add eyes and coat with Loons Hard Head or epoxy of your choice.